Tuesday, 28 December 2021

Use it or lose it: UK high street crisis

No sector has felt the effects of the pandemic more than shops and hospitality, as they face the worst decline on record.

 Stores are having to do what they can to attract customers to come in, even if that means they have to put items on sale. (Credit: Gemma Lavers)

The news on the high street often gives the impression the future will be bleak, but behind the scenes retailers are continuously creating new strategies in a last attempt for survival. It's no secret that our high streets have been struggling for the last decade, battling against the high costs of running stores, the lack of people working in city centres, and the convenience of online shopping. 

But then came the Covid-19 crisis, where customers were left with no choice but to shop online and forego bricks and mortar stores.

This Christmas brought even more chaos to shops as the omicron variant took hold in London, meaning less shoppers came out over one of the busiest Christmas shopping weekends of the year. The final weekend before Christmas, the 18th and 19th December is a key period for stores as shoppers cram in their final round of present buying before the big day.

Cities and towns across the UK are being affected by the high street crisis. (Credit: Gemma Lavers)

Prioritising people

Now, we demand more from stores. We don't want to take the trip into town to simply buy clothes, we want a day out, an experience with friends, somewhere where we can begin the day in a shop and finish the day in a pub or restaurant. 

Nike's flagship store in London demonstrates the effectiveness of creating an in-store experience, as it offers customers more than just a traditional sports store. The technology in NikeTown invites customers to interact with their state-of-the-art football boot fitting machine, video gait analysis and NikeID personalisation service. 

Customisation will be a key part of the reinvention process as current trends show that consumers want to buy unique clothing, or items which they are able to put their own personal twist on. At the moment, stores which offer a 'day out' are limited, but adaptable brands like Primark have followed in Nike's footsteps in focusing on what they call "an enhanced shopping experience."

NikeTown offers customers the ultimate personalisation service. (Credit: Oxford Street)

People make the trip from all across the UK to visit the worlds biggest Primark in Birmingham, which offers a day out within the store itself; boasting a beauty salon, hairdressers and the only Disney cafe to exist outside of their theme parks. 

Reinvention is the answer

Retail brands can only change their marketing strategies to an extent, and it's clear the answer lies in reigniting the excitement of a day out shopping. Persuading the customer to get off the sofa and into town can be challenging, but not if they have something interesting to come out for. 

With creativity, and by blending the online with the in-person, technology can transform our high streets back into the bustling social hubs they once were. 

I headed into Leeds city centre to investigate whether the future of the high streets lies in our hands. You can watch my television feature piece below. 

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Wednesday, 17 November 2021

Depop: A sustainable solution to fast fashion?

With rising concerns about the sustainability of the current clothing industry, Depop is being dubbed as the eco-friendly fashion app we all need. 

One man's trash is another man's treasure is the anecdote which accurately describes Depop. Second-hand buying is on the rise and rather than going into a charity shop, Depop allows you to buy pre-owned clothes on a downloadable app. Created in the UK by Simon Beckerman, it's easy to use format is part of Depop's undeniable success, and makes it accessible to any age. 

Sites like eBay and Gumtree don't specialise in targeting the younger market. Depop's focus is on attracting millennials who have a disposable income. Millennials make up the majority of Depop's consumers, as the app announced over ninety percent of its thirteen million users are under the age of twenty-six. To target its young audience, Depop uses familiar aspects from other social media apps, such as the addition of hashtags, the discover page and emulating the iconic Instagram timeline layout. It's never been easier to get your hands on good quality second-hand clothes. 

Young entrepreneurs are utilising Depop as a way of entering the fashion industry, with many young adults making profit from buying stock and selling it at a higher price on the app. Successful shops usually have a niche and display aesthetically pleasing pictures on their profile page. 

"Don't underestimate the fact it's still hard work"

Leeds local Amy Rhodes Johnson is among the millions of sellers, with her shop Clararhodes boasting a huge thirty-one thousand followers. Depop sellers have become fashion influencers as they refine their sense of style and showcase their personality to their followers, with most sellers running Instagram accounts alongside their shop. After starting her online shop five years ago, Amy sells around fifty items a month and is part of Depop's Level Up team, which offers advice to young Depop entrepreneurs, as well as encouraging a sense of community among sellers. 

Photo credit: Clararhodes on Depop. Image design: Gemma Lavers

The ability to message other sellers directly means the Depop community has become an integral part of the app. They allow sellers to be in control of their business, but sellers still have some guidance and support from experts. 

"People see my shop with my followers and nice pictures, but what they don't realise is that most of the time it's me sat in my bedroom alone, uploading items for hours on end... and it can get isolating sometimes."

Depop recognises the hard work top sellers put into their businesses, and often invites them into their headquarters for workshops. 

"It was strange for me to sit in the Depop HQ in London and think that I've done this for myself and all my hard work has led me here, meeting some of the most successful Depop sellers in the country."

Amy started her business with no savings or extra money, which meant that Clararhodes had to be earning money to allow her to continue with it. 

She admits she's learnt a lot during the five years. Within the last year, Amy's made a conscious effort to highlight the environmental damage fast fashion is causing, and combats this by keeping her Depop shop stocked with high-quality items at affordable prices.

"Even as a small business owner, I don't want to earn money in a way I feel guilty about, so I try my hardest to be sustainable, like I use decomposable eco-packaging. For buyers, people definitely feel less guilty buying second-hand clothes as they feel like they're doing their part in helping the environment."

Fashion trends change quickly, but attitudes towards certain types of clothes, for example vintage and branded items, tend to change slower. Celebrating uniqueness is being championed, and Amy explains the main motive for consumers to shop on Depop is because people just want to wear something which nobody else has seen before. Large fashion labels don't offer those unique and quirky vintage garments people look for on second-hand sites. 

"Depop is changing our generations outlook on second-hand clothes, you don't need the newest thing and it's cool to get vintage stuff - it's now become trendy again to be yourself."

Cutting environmental corners

Fast fashion has changed the industry. Clothes are inexpensive, of poor quality, and trends adapt at a faster pace as people shop more frequently. To keep up, big fashion labels like Pretty Little Thing and ASOS are churning out huge amounts of mass-produced clothes, which they make for as little as one penny and then sell on for a relatively low price. 'New in' or 'trending now' collections allow consumers to purchase on trend items during the micro-seasons throughout the whole year, rather than waiting for spring/summer and autumn/winter collections to drop. 

The continuous consumption of fast fashion gives companies the motivation to produce huge amounts of stock, some of which are not being sold. The low prices and speed of production allow consumers to buy an item and wear it once, then throw it away. YouGov released figures stating four in ten people throw unwanted clothes in the general rubbish bin, when they could be recycled or donated. 

Brands are ignoring the environmental impact of the fast fashion cycle as production relies on non-renewable energy resources like oil, fertilisers and chemicals, making the industry responsible for 10% of the worlds emissions. People forget there is an environmental cost behind each top or pair of jeans that are worn. 

The ethics behind the production of clothes is often overlooked too, as exploitation of sweatshop workers is extremely high, eighty percent of which are women. Missguided sold a one pound bikini set in 2019 which raised concerns about how the bikini was being made for so cheap. Unfortunately, the answer is sweatshops. Sweatshops involve children working in inhumane conditions for little money, their human rights often ignored by bosses. The current clothing process can't be maintained forever, in both the environmental and manufacturing sense. 

An attitude reversal is needed from consumers of fashion and large companies to establish an environmentally friendly way forward. 'I can't wear the same top twice' is a phrase often spoken by women (usually before a night out), I know I'm guilty of saying this. Clothes need to be of a better quality and worn more than just once, as they're currently being treated as disposable items.

Transforming the fashion industry 

Depop is battling against big fashion brands to challenge the throwaway culture by allowing people an easy way of re-selling worn or unwanted clothes. But, the app has their work cut out as buying second-hand becomes less attractive when fashion sites are consistently offering sales and discounts. Fashion website Nastygal almost always has a forty percent off code, encouraging customers to shop by manipulating them into think they're getting a bargain. 



Unlike big labels, Depop allows its customers to experiment with their garments by seeing how real people style them. By using Depop to both buy and re-sell clothes, you are part of a community dedicated to helping overthrow the harm fast fashion has done to the environment and this 'throwaway' mentality. Every company has a role to play in protecting our environment. 

Depop are its own market leader with little competition, and they're paving the way for sustainable fashion websites as they continue to successfully encourage people to shop second-hand. It seems that if there is a way that we can help slow down the production and consumption of fast fashion, it's to buy our clothes from Depop. 
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Tuesday, 26 October 2021

The state of women's safety

As women, we're told by our parents from a young age that we shouldn't walk home alone, most choose to take this advice and eliminate any risks, like getting a taxi home instead of walking. However, the risk is not only in being alone anymore. 

*Disclaimer* I'm no expert in politics or anything like that, but I do know how it feels to be a woman. 

Illustration was kindly designed and created by Jenna Hammersley Hicks (@jenillustrate on Instagram)


Reports of women being spiked by needle have arisen across the UK – from Nottingham to Edinburgh. Nottinghamshire police are even investigating twelve separate reports of men and women being spiked by a needle within the last two weeks.

My initial thoughts – I felt sick to my stomach. Being spiked by someone slipping drugs in your drink is awful enough. But an injection? Has society really got this sinister? 

I got in touch with the awareness Instagram campaign Girls Uncut Leeds to gain some clarity on the situation. Girls Uncut Leeds, in collaboration with Girls Night In have organised a boycott of all Leeds clubs on 27 October. Make a mental note to remember that date. We actually ended up spending a good hour chatting about the entire spiking epidemic.

 

Starting a conversation

Girls Uncut told me that the purpose of the boycott is to bring attention to the severity of the situation, and encourage venues, and everyone, to take spiking more seriously. Which is fair enough, as I don’t think people truly realise how common spiking is. I recently read an article on The TAB Leeds, which stated that out of the four hundred students they asked, 58% knew someone who had been spiked in Leeds. While at University, Leeds is a city I used to go out in all the time, so seeing this statistic breaks my heart as I never once considered the city as "dangerous".

Not only this, but spiking via the means of a needle is extremely dangerous. Reusing needles can put individuals at risk of contracting HIV/Aids which can have life-long consequences.

We know that men get spiked, that's a fact. But, when you think about the image that’s conjured up when you think about spiking, most of the time the perpetrator is a male and the victim is a female. Girls Uncut (and most of us) would like to see this dynamic changed as this is not a problem which exclusively effects women. They told me the response that came through on the account was really varied. There were people of all genders who were coming forward and saying that they have had experience with spiking in the past. 

It does make me think, what is actually being done about all this? Does this story go further than a newspaper headline? There is currently no coherent protocol in place for individuals who think they may have been spiked in the club. Some Leeds venues have responded by installing additional CCTV, training bouncers, and offering free drink lids. But is this enough? Personally I’d like to see all drinks have lids, bag searches, and pat-down checks on entry to clubs. Even this cannot ensure that needles aren't carried into clubs.

Women want to feel safe. I was going to add an ‘again’ to the end of that statement, but quite frankly, we’ve never had the luxury of feeling safe in the first place. 

Resources you might find helpful if you, or someone you know, has ever been spiked.

The basics on drink spiking and date rape drugs

NHS - What should I do if I am attacked with a dirty needle?

West Yorkshire Police - Guidance on drink spiking

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Wednesday, 20 January 2021

Review: Amazon Prime's "The Wilds"

Like most nights, I was aimlessly scrolling Netflix and Amazon Prime Video, searching for yet another series I could really get into, and then an Amazon Prime banner popped up showing their new young-adult series "The Wilds".  

*I'll give a disclaimer: there will inevitably be spoilers in this post*

The ten part series is essentially about a group of teenage girls whose plane crashes into the sea near an isolated island while on route to a female empowerment camp in Hawaii.  The girls then have to battle to survive, but this is cleverly weaved together with flashbacks into each of the girls past as their stories are told throughout the season. 

I think when most people hear the cliche, girls stranded on an island plot, most are inclined to roll their eyes and skip to another show - why watch a show with a story that has been told ten-times over.  However, "The Wilds" offers viewers a sense of familiarity as they know the basic premise of the plot, yet the series contains unforeseen twists as directors attempt, and I would argue succeed, to put their own spin on an unoriginal idea. 

The short synopsis I attempted (and probably failed) to give is an extremely shortened version of what actually plays out in the episodes, with the show covering extremely important topics like; racism, foster care, euthanasia, addiction and suicide, primarily through the flashbacks I mentioned previously.  Saying that, the show is not all doom and gloom, in fact I think Amazon have done a brilliant job of showcasing the strength, courage, and resilience the modern young woman has.  I love the fact the show is made up of a predominately female cast, with the 'villain' of the show being female too.  

Rachel Griffiths takes on the role of psychotic psychologist Gretchen Klein, a powerful woman driven by her desire to fulfil her social experiment named The Dawn of Eve.  Viewers later find out the plane crash was planned and each one of the girls, or participants, were chosen by Gretchen herself for their personality traits.  Reminiscent of Orwell's telescreens in his novel 1984, Gretchen watches over her participants via hidden cameras on the island, which are then projected onto a large screen set up in her laboratory. 

Each one of the girls are allocated an individual episode exploring their past, and although all of the characters have thought-provoking pasts, I found Shelby and Dot's episodes most captivating.  Not only because of the stories being told, but also through the careful weaved editing, scripting, and acting - the casting is great and you're inclined to feel empathetic towards teenage girls.

I must admit, I did watch the entire season in two days, so I'm extremely thrilled "The Wilds" has been renewed for a second season, and that felt kind of inevitable to me because of how the directors decided to end season one.  Cue the biggest spoiler: with Leah finding video footage of an almost identical experiment, but this time with male participants.  

"The Wilds" leaves viewers with a myriad of questions; who are the men?  Why does Rachel only have one arm?  Will the group of girls ever escape?  Whatever happens, I'm sure Amazon will keep us eager and waiting for the next instalment and I cannot wait.

"The Wilds" is available to stream on Amazon Prime Video now.  

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